Canine CPR

It dawned on me recently that we are all probably aware of human CPR in some form or another, but do we know what to do if our dog collapses? Imagine the horror of not having even a slight idea of what to do?

I have found a video on YouTube which I think is easy to follow, however there are others and you might want to have a look and see if they reinforce the message of this video.

Remember, something is better than nothing, just give it a go and try to get the vet to the dog or normally the dog to the vet and hopefully the outcome will be positive. If you do nothing then it will be a negative outcome for sure!



I have included the video below to show that even if you do everything wrong; but you do something, then you can effect the outcome in a positive way! This trainer does a form of CPR as taught by the prievious video but not exactly right, but he helps the dog which is all we want!

Hopefully none of us will ever need to do this but if we are faced with this situation at least we can have a go and that's all that anyone can ask!

Cheers Steve

Be Calm

Some practical and commonsense tips to help you to achieve a calm and balanced dog!
Exercise your dog! - This subject is covered by our walking the dog page, but it is the most fundamental thing that you can do to calm your dog down! If you do not burn off the dogs energy, particularly high and working energy type dogs, then you are asking for trouble. You must MUST always exercise your dog' every day without fail unless you have an issue to prevent you doing it and then someone else should do it for you!

Calm yourself down! - Before you can ask your dog to be calm you need to be calm yourself! In fact, the worse your dog gets, the calmer you need to be! When your dog gets stressed or over excited, if you start shouting and puling at the dog, it can be interpreted as you joining in with the dog, so if another dog is approaching, your dog starts shouting, you start shouting at the dog and the bad energy that is flying around just fuels the fire. So, hard as it is, calm down, take a deep breath and think about what you are going to do to get your dog to concentrate on you and defuse the situation.

Ride the wave! - Your dog may explode in a wave of anxiety, fear or even aggression when you ask it to do something that it may not want to do! As stated above, calm down and ride the wave letting your dog expel the fear or anxiety whilst you plan your next move. You should aim to correct your dog before the episode occurs, so the moment your dog thinks about getting anxious or aggressive, that is the time to put in a correction to get your dog to focus on you and curb that behaviour.

Corrections - When we talk about corrections, this can be anything from a mild rebuke to a spray collar and everything in between. You need to understand your dog and find out what makes them tick! I was having my hand nibbled by an Airedale who was barking and confronting me in front of his owner and did not respect a hand correction to his side and so I asked the owner to put the lead on and the dog instantly became docile and compliant, so the lead was all the correction that that dog needed. Don't go over the top, use whatever is needed to get the job done and refocus your dog. It might be a favourite toy or a food reward. It can be a physical correction or a verbal one. Do not stop though or you will allow the dog to succeed in what it is doing. If every time you confront the problem with corrections, eventually the dog will understand that the behaviour is unwanted. If you correct early and then reward, you will solve the problem without fuss and it will quickly disappear.

Confront the fear! - Use every opportunity as a training opportunity. The classic is to say my dog doesn't like other dogs and then never go anywhere where other dogs are! If your dog doesn't like other dogs, enrol him in a class with lots of other dogs, seek out opportunities to allow your dog to play with other dogs or at least be around them without fear. Don't run away from a problem, solve it. A Border Collie I was looking after would almost crawl on its belly when lorries or even fast cars went past. I took the dog to a busy junction near the house and stood away from the pavement but near enough to the road to get a reaction from the dog. Ignoring the anxiety we stood for 20 minutes during which time the fear became less and less. Repeat this regularly and involve treats or even a game with a favourite toy until the dog becomes desensitized to the irrational fear! Don't ever give affection whilst the dog is under stress or you will reward that behaviour and the dog will worsen and never improve.

Tools to help! - There are a number of products on the market which can support you if you have problems with your dog whether through anxiety or aggression. See our herbal treatments page for information on what they all do! The products on this page are all designed to help quieten the dogs mind and allow you to carry out the techniques we have discussed above. Firework and loud noise CDs can be used to de-sensitise the dog from the fear of loud and unexpected noises. Use them as instructed at a low volume and then gradual raise the volume whilst the dog is feeding or doing something pleasurable. Also make sure the dog is out and about in situations where loud and unexpected noises may be so that it realises that there is nothing to fear! A dog that is under severe stress will not be acting rationally and can explode in fear, anxiety or aggression as it panics. Use whatever tools you need to ensure that you always succeed when dealing with your dog.

Seek professional help! - If you don't feel able to deal with the issue you always have the option to seek professional help and there are many people who can help you! Please feel free to contact me about any problems or issues you may be having and I can point you in the right direction if i can't help you myself.

D.I.Y. Dog Ear Cleaning Fluid.

This is a great post that I found when researching Cocker Spaniel ear problems. It is a well known problem with dogs with this type of ear and this is an easy and effective way to treat the problem. I am not a veterinarian and am not qualified to know what these ingredients do but I have checked the information that's available on the web and this solution has been in use for many years by the top Cocker spaniel breeders and has shown no side effects etc.  If in doubt consult your vet before treating your dog!

Rosie the Cocker Spaniel with her foot
stuck to her ear scratching as usual

I will be using it on a customers dog called Rosie and I will post back the results. Rosie has a not pleasant odour that comes from her ears and is a yeast type of issue which is caused by lack of air in the ear cavity and ideal conditions for yeast to multiply.

As well as this mixture clean away all the hair that obstructs air from getting into the ear and regularly open the ear and get the dog used to having its ears manipulated!

I will add the ingredients links so that you can just click and buy  the difficult ones direct from Amazon.

Please watch the video at the end of this post which will show you how to use the solution on your dog!

Ingredients:

1.  White vinegar (Any supermarket or grocers)

2.  Powdered boric acid (See bottom of post)

3.  Isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) (See bottom of post)

4.  Betadine antiseptic (or the generic version, known as Povidone-Iodine Solution) - Please note: do not use "Betadine Scrub", use "Betadine Solution" (See bottom of post)


  

Directions for mixing the solution together:

Pour six ounces of isopropyl alcohol in to a plastic applicator bottle. Add one and a half teaspoons of boric acid powder. Be careful not to get any boric acid on your skin or clothes. If you do, wash it off immediately.

Shake the solution extremely well, until the boric acid powder is dissolved, or for five minutes, whichever comes first.

Add two ounces of white vinegar. Shake the solution some more, until the boric acid powder is dissolved, or for another five minutes, whichever comes first.

Add one teaspoon of the Betadine antiseptic, and shake it up some more. Be careful not to get any Betadine on your skin or clothes. If you do, wash it off immediately.

The ear cleaning solution is now ready to use.

To use the ear cleaning solution:

It is recommended that you use the ear cleaning solution in your garage or outdoors, as the dog will shake it out of his ears and it will fly in to the air and stain things.

Squirt the solution inside your dog's ear until the ear canal is completely full. Massage the outside of the ear to help slosh the cleaning solution around inside. Release the dog and let him shake out the ear cleaning solution from his ears. If you get any of the ear cleaning solution on your skin, wash it off as soon as possible.

Be sure to shake the solution up really well before each and every time you use it. The boric acid has a tendency to settle at the bottom of the bottle. Store at room temperature. 

Use the cleaning solution daily until you start to see some improvement. Gradually cut back to once per week when you are happy with the condition of the ear. When the ear seems completely free of infection, you can go two weeks between treatments.

Warning: Do not use this ear cleaning solution on dogs with ruptured ear drums, or on dogs with open sores or wounds in the ear area. An ear exam by a veterinarian is recommended prior to beginning treatment with this ear cleaning solution.

This recipe came to you from Jim Zimmerlin - www.zimfamilycockers.com

  


Cheers Steve

Who is walking who?

One of the things I see a hundred times a day are dog owners being dragged around the streets by their dogs! The dogs are out in front pulling their humans to every lamppost and clump of grass and barking and pulling towards other dogs and people! If you stop for just a moment though and think of what you are saying to your dog you might change your mind!

When out in front the world is a scary place, the dog is deciding on direction and when, where and what it does, now if you have a calm and placid dog it will not be too much of a problem. But if your dog is either aggressive or timid then you could be storing up a lot of problems.

The aggressive dog. Walking ahead and on the lookout for trouble. Anything that comes near is going to get it! Everything is a threat and everyone needs watching. The dog will pull the owner along and ears up and body bristling this dog will cause trouble, probably bark and try to get at other dogs and will get attacked by other dogs because of its attitude. The timid dog surprisingly will do just the same but this time it will be in a desperate attempt to protect its weak owner and to make the threat go away or to bluff others to stay away. Either way your dog is not viewing you as in control and your leadership is undermined. The dog will be under stress and the walk will not be a calm and pleasant experience for either of you!

So what to do? Well first thing is to get your dog to walk at your side and be under your control. This can be achieved by either body language and energy which is my prefered way, or using tools such as Halti or Canny Collars or other anti-pull devices which can even up your lack of control.

Second, be in control and don't allow your dog to dictate the walk. Don't allow it to sniff and drag you around, walk from A to B and then allow the dog some free time and then walk back again under control.

I will go into more depth on future blog entries but in the meantime please just get some control of your dog and you will reap the benefits in many other ways!

Happy training!

Steve

Come back Millie

Millie the English Setter is a lovely dog and has no real behavioural problems, however her owner was reluctant to let her off lead in the park if there was a road near as she was struggling to get her back!

We put Millie onto a training line (for her owners benefit, she didn't need it! :) and allowed her to wander free and play with two other dogs that we had present. As Millie got to the area of the road, her owner called her back and because she was on the line and there was no real danger, the owner could call in a warm, higher pitched and relaxed voice although with excitement in it; which caused Millie to return every time.

The only time she didn't recall was when I experimented with the line off and the owner became nervous and the recall became a shrill shout which was not going to be listened to! Once the owner was reminded to relax and try in the good voice, Millie came flying back and even took some shmacko as a reward, which she doesn't normally do!

So the moral is, if you are unsure about your dog, put he/she onto a training line, this isn't admitting defeat, just going back to training mode which is the best way to get the results you want. Use a high and loving voice tone and if your dog looks at you but doesn't recall, run in the opposite direction calling in the same excited voice and watch your dog fly back! I would also recommend a toy to encourage recall and to build the owner dog bond and I will do a post about that in the future!

(P.S. Click here to see some training lines from the lookafteryourdog shop)

Happy training

Steve

Taz - the anxious fighter

I spent a very enjoyable morning today working with two dogs and their owners, both with different issues. The first dog Taz is a small brown Terrier who has a dog on dog aggression issue. Taz will fly into any dog that he decides poses a potential threat without too much warning. This has caused a lot of anxiety with his owners which perpetuates the problem.

Taz is basically a nice dog with anxiety issues which he tries to hide by getting in first. This was made worse by him not being castrated at an early age, allowing him to develop his hormone driven agenda and ingraining his aggression into a habit.

Now he has been castrated we can actually influence him on a normal dog level; rather than competing with hormones which often is impossible to do! First thing was to put him on a 30 feet line for his and the other dogs safety! You have a duty and a moral obligation not to hurt another dog if you can avoid it! It is unfair for peoples loved dogs to be bitten unnecessarily! It is also essential the dog is on a training line so you can control the speed and intensity of their meetings, as this can cause attacks by itself! That done we let him meet pretty much every decent dog we could find and control the meetings with a tug on the line and a distracting jab if he tried to bully the other dog! The majority of dogs passed without problem and only occasionally did he try to dominate another dog.

I handed the line to Taz's owner who accidentally got the line caught and he flew for an English Setter called Millie that he had been passive with all the way before. This show the power of the energy the owner exerts and also the pressure on a lead that can cause a fight.

Disagree with this behaviour, free the dog and off we go again. Don't isolate the dog from the one it attacked as this reinforces the reason the dog did it in the first place which was to drive it off! Instead put them back together and carry on in a relaxed vigilant manner.

Taz came on in leaps and bounds and although only one day and many more are required, breaking the bad habit will free him from the stress of constant battle and he can go back to being a calm, settled member of your family!

I'll let you know about the other dog Millie on the next post!

Happy training! Steve

Protect your visitors

I've just published the latest in a series of articles on using my method to create a great dog! This part which is the fourth is about how to allow visitors to your house without them being mobbed by your dog and covered in slobber, muddy paw prints or being scratched or bitten!

If you follow the article you will create a welcoming environment for your visitors and your dog will understand what you want which makes for a happier and less stressed dog!

Steve

Sitting patiently and allowing your visitors in in safety is easily accomplished with a little time and patience!

Claim your dogs food

Part three of my method is now on the website. Claiming food is vitally important within the home and out on the walk. If you can't take food from your dog it could ingest things that will cause serious harm or kill it!

You should be in control of your dog and have a trust and respect based relationship whereby your dog will allow you to take food from it as it accepts your position and also that whatever you do is for the good of the dog. Something the pack leaders do and the followers accept gratefully. After Hurricane Katrina struck in New Orleans, packs of dogs formed and were led by Beagles and Hounds, not the German Shepherds and other large dogs, as there ability to scent food and safe passage where not questioned by the pack regardless of size!

So step up to the plate and do the right thing for your dog! They'll thank you for it!

Cheers Steve

Claim everything your dog has access to

Claim Everything

Part 2 of my method has been added to the website at lookafteryourdog and deals with the issue of claiming everything that your dog comes into contact with! Toys, chairs, beds, anything! You own it, you brought it and if you make it clear to your dog that it doesn't have any rights to anything without your say so, then you will have a calm and happy dog that knows its place and doesn't feel the DNA animal need to compete for resources!

Cheers

Steve

Be the boss

My Method Update - Be the Boss!

I've published another part of my method on lookafteryourdog This section called be the boss touches on how we should view our relationship with our dogs and why it is important!

Please feel free to have a look and I will add be adding all the other parts over the coming weeks and months and hopefully it might help someone to change their relationship with their dog for the better!

Cheers Steve

My method for training a great dog

I've begun work putting my formula for a great dog onto the lookafteryourdog website! If you visit the site bit by bit I'm going to put my 20 years of knowledge and experience into a method of training that I use with every dog that I look after or train.

If you follow the formula and all its parts, you will have a great dog and they will still have their spirit and individuality, but will all conform to a happy and relaxed way of being!

Part 1 is be the boss! A simple but essential component of the formula that requires the human to step up to the plate and be in charge of their dog! Without this simple fundamental you will never succeed in creating a great dog!

Please keep an eye here for updates to the formula, or on our Facebook or Twitter pages where I will announce new additions and exercises to follow to train your dog to the formula!

Cheers Steve

PLEASE Come Back!

Some practical and common-sense tips to help you to get your dog back to you!

I have watched in horror at dog owners in my local parks whose dogs are running free with a red or purple faced owner screaming at them to come back! Never, never fight a battle that you can't win! If you are not in a position to reinforce your wish, then you are actually training your dog to not come back and to be able to disobey you!

If you are faced with this situation I would say nothing until you can finally get hold of your dog and just hook him up and take it on the chin! Do not scold or punish because cause and effect will be lost on him and you will just look like a bully in a foul temper for no reason and then he'll be twice as determined not to come back to you next time!

So, once you have hold of the little sod, here's what I'd do! Buy a training line from dog-shop. The lines are flat webbing with a different width depending on the size and strength of the dog and have a handle at one end and a clip at the other.

There are different lengths of line, I have 30 feet and 50 feet lengths and even a 100 feet depending on the dog and where I am, which should initially be on preferably a wide open space. If the dog is fast and determined then use the 50 foot one. 15mm wide with a decent trigger hook on it will do, but if you have a bigger more powerful dog, then use a 20mm wide line or bigger. Hook up your dog, his collar or a harness if you use one will do, if he is particularly strong willed and determined a choke chain will do but just ensure there are no sudden pulls on it to cause discomfort!

Simply hook up and let the dog move away from you to walk freely. If you are nervous then hold onto the end of the line, the dog will not be aware of it as it will be dragging, but it allows you to relax as you know he cant get away! At appropriate times; when he is just about to turn to you or is on his way back, call his name and when he arrives offer a tit bit or some fuss or play a game and then release without a command and just walk on. Quite soon you will be calling even if he is distracted and he will fly back to you. If he makes off and ignores your call, hold onto the end of the line and if he is running or you are not strong, walk or trot forward to gradually slow him down and then stand your ground. DO NOT send your dog into a back flip or jar him to a halt, you may hurt or damage his neck or back in the process! Simply move forward acting as a spring to take the jolt out of the stop and then concentrate on using all your energy and encouragement to get the dog to WANT TO COME BACK! Remember, this is not about force, it's about a trusting, respectful relationship!

Call again and if he ignores you give a tug on the line and proceed to guide him back with tugs and not pulling! If you pull he will pull against you, the moment he begins to return, call again with arms spread wide and encourage him into a big reward! After a time, you can use the shorter line and if it's an old one, you could even cut it down a length at a time until it is little more than a very long lead.

That's it! keep it up and you will have a recall in no time! Eventually you can let him off when you trust him, but don't be afraid to use the line again if he falls off the wagon!

If you have a particularly difficult case and you can't get your dogs attention, then you have some serious trust and respect issues and should address these separately to the recall. In the worst cases you could consider using a remote spray collar to get the dogs attention and then use rewards to get him back to you! Consider professional help if you do not feel competent to do this on your own!

Spray Collars

Spray collars provide a valuable training tool when all other reward based methods have been tried and failed. I do not advocate the primary use of spray collars until it becomes a legitimate method to use. The products are designed to startle and shock the dog which is not harmful but is a more severe method than the reward based methods like verbal corrections and food rewards.

I prefer the audible collars which have the ability to emit a sound/buzz which I use to signal good behaviour similar to a clicker and a reward to follow. The spray is the last option and is only used after the dog is taught the reward on the buzzer and when its tested and attempts to do the bad activity, the spray is to correct that decision and a reward is offered if the dog recalls to the handler away from the problem activity!

Start by using the buzzer when giving treats to your dog just to "load" the sound and teach the dog that it has done right and a reward will follow. Ask the dog to come to you and as it starts to do so press the buzzer (DO NOT MISTAKE THE BUTTONS AND SPRAY OR YOU WILL TRAIN THE DOG TO STAY AWAY FROM YOU!) and when it arrives reward with a tasty treat. At this stage i recommend not loading the spray into the device so accidents can't happen. This is purely training on voice and reward!

After the dog has learned that the sound is a reward, add the spray option and we can now test the dog in a very low stimulus area. For instance; if its cow poo that is your issue, go to an area with very little poop and try to use voice and reward alone and work hard at training the dog to come to the reward. When we are proofing the training, then if the dog goes to roll in the poop, as it physically attempts to do so, preferably as it starts to manoeuvre into it, press the spray button ONCE ONLY and when the dog avoids the poop call him/her and if they start to come, press the buzzer and praise lavishly and reward well.

This can then be done for a week or two and then areas with greater levels of poop can be attempted, but you must be on your guard and not to lose concentration so the dog gets away with the activity sometimes and is sprayed at others. This will confuse the dog and you will be going backwards in your training and the tool (Spray collar) will be useless!

Remember, reward is the key to success, the spray is purely a correction at distance to the behaviour, if the dog is near you can correct using your voice and a physical touch as well! Remember NEVER, NEVER get angry, NEVER press the spray in anger, NEVER repeatedly press the spray as a punishment and ALWAYS praise and reward correct behaviour, even after a bad incident!

Any problems give me a shout!

Cheers Steve

Don't cook your dog

A noble campaign and if you follow the link they will send you some car stickers to advertise the campaign!

Free car stickers by following this link http://t.co/dAFQmOwE

Join the “Don’t Cook Your Dog” campaign this summer!

Dear Dogs In The News Reader,

We wanted to take this opportunity to invite you to join one of the biggest canine campaigns of the year.

The international “Don’t Cook Your Dog” campaign was launched in June 2011 as a response to the tragic and preventable death of two police dogs, who were left in a hot car. Dogs In The News have been strong supporters of the campaign since day one.

One of the key elements of the campaign is a car window sticker, which should remind people of the dangers of leaving dogs in cars during the summer. We would love to see one of these in every car in Britain, and to never have to read about a dog dying in a hot car ever again.

This drive to spread the message is more important than ever as summer approaches and the weather warms up.

To that end, we are very happy to help the campaign in our own little way by providing the car window stickers free of charge.

We invite you to order yours now! Just click HERE and we shall get one out to you very shortly.

We hope you will join us in spreading this important message. Don’t forget to visit the official campaign website for more details.

Uses for the Kong toy

This information was created elsewhere and i have lost the details of the writer, but its a great piece on the kong toy and so ill produce it here and if i can find the author i will credit them accordingly! If you are unsure over any ingredients for your specific dog and any condition he/she may have then consult your vet!

What’s a KONG?
The KONG is a nontoxic, dishwasher-safe rubber toy with a hollow center. When stuffed with food, it provides dogs with a healthy outlet for their natural desire to chew and lick. KONGs come in many sizes, from very tiny to extra-large. Some are made for puppies with baby teeth, some are made for regular chewers and some are made for dogs with powerful jaws. There’s a KONG out there for every dog!
Why Give Your Dog a KONG?
Nature made dogs to hunt, forage, scavenge and work for their food—not have it delivered for free in a bowl! One reason dogs develop behavior problems is sheer boredom, resulting from a lack of physical exercise, problem solving and outdoor exploration and investigation. To make your dog’s life more enjoyable, you can give him fun “work” to do when he’s home alone or when you can’t play with him.
Food puzzle toys give dogs a chance to work for their food. These toys are sturdy containers, usually made of hard rubber or plastic, that can hold food or treats. They usually have holes on each end or on the sides. A dog must work to get food to come out by shaking, pawing, rolling, nibbling or licking a puzzle toy. The effort dogs make to get their food from these toys eases boredom, reduces destructive behavior and lessens the anxiety they can feel when alone. In addition to the KONG, here are some of our favorite puzzle toys:
The Tug-a-Jug™, the Twist ‘n Treat™ and the Squirrel Dude™ by Premier Pet Products
The Buster® Cube
The Tricky Treat™ Ball
The Atomic Treat Ball™
The TreatStik®
How to Use a KONG
You can stuff KONGs with almost any kind of food your dog likes. Feed him his meals in a KONG by mixing his regular kibble with a little canned dog food, cottage cheese, yogurt, peanut butter, canned pumpkin or mashed banana. After spooning the mixture into the KONG, you can use a bit of cream cheese or peanut butter to seal everything in. You can also fill your dog’s KONGs with special snacks to supplement his diet. See the recipes below for creative KONG-stuffing ideas.
Start Out Easy
Dogs don’t automatically know how to use food puzzle toys. They need to learn how. When you introduce your dog to the KONG, you’ll need to make it easy for him to empty it so he doesn’t get discouraged and give up. Use small pieces of kibble or treats that will fall out of the KONG easily.
Make It Harder
When your dog learns how to use the KONG and can empty easy KONGs quickly, you can make his job more difficult. He’ll love the challenge!
Use bigger pieces of food. Wedge chunks of fruits and veggies and larger biscuits inside the opening of the KONG.
Put a few cubes of cheese inside the KONG. After stuffing it with the cheese and some of your dog’s regular food, put the KONG in the microwave for just five to eight seconds so that the cheese gets sticky and soft. (Be sure that the KONG is completely cool before you give it to your dog.)
Hide your dog’s KONGs around your home. Dogs love finding hidden food and unpacking stuffed food puzzle toys! Try putting your dog’s breakfast in KONGs and hiding them right before you leave for work in the morning. Your dog will have a great time working for his meal while you’re away. (A word of warning: Some dogs can make a bit of a mess while enjoying KONGs. If a KONG has soft or wet food inside it—or if your dog tends to drool a lot when chewing on things—you might want to give him KONGs only when he’s in his crate, outside or confined in a room with flooring that’s easy to clean, like tile or linoleum.)
Make a KONGcicle! They’re great for spring and summertime outdoor enjoyment. First, put a dab of peanut butter at the bottom of the KONG to seal the small hole. Then turn the KONG upside down and place it in a cup. Stuff the KONG with kibble, canned food, cottage cheese, mashed potatoes, banana or anything else you like. Pour a little chicken broth or gravy into the KONG and freeze it overnight.
KONG Stuffing Recipes
Here are some of our favorite recipes. Give them a try—or make up special recipes of your own! Just be sure to avoid foods that can be dangerous to your dog, like onions, garlic, avocados, macadamia nuts, bread dough, grapes and raisins, moldy foods, artificial sweeteners, fatty cuts of meat and chocolate. If you’re unsure about what’s safe to feed your dog, contact his veterinarian for advice and please see our article, Foods That Are Hazardous to Dogs.
Main Courses
The Basic KONG
You’ll need:
A special treat for “dessert,” like a cube of freeze-dried liver or jerky
Your dog’s kibble
Canned dog food
Sticky sealer (a blob of peanut butter, processed cheese or cream cheese)
Drop the special treat into the bottom of the KONG. Then mix together your dog’s kibble and a few spoonfuls of canned dog food. Spoon the mixture into the KONG. When the KONG is filled, seal all the food inside using a dab of peanut butter, a smear of processed cheese or a little cream cheese. If you find that your dog can lick the KONG clean within just a few minutes, try freezing it overnight before giving it to him to satisfy him longer.
Meat and Potatoes
You’ll need:
Ground turkey, chicken, lean hamburger or cubed chuck steak or roast
Potatoes, brown rice, cooked oatmeal or crumbled whole wheat bread
Kidney beans and grated raw or lightly steamed veggies
Combine equal parts meat and potatoes or grain. Stir in a spoonful of beans and a sprinkle of raw grated or steamed and mashed veggies. Freeze the KONG overnight or serve it warm.
Chicken Stew
1 whole chicken or fryer parts (breast and thighs)
Potatoes or cooked brown rice, oatmeal or millet
Vegetables: Some that dogs like raw (grated or finely chopped) are parsley, carrots, zucchini, lettuce, bell peppers (green, red, orange and yellow), fresh corn, celery, tomatoes and beets. Some veggies that dogs enjoy steamed are green beans, broccoli, asparagus, cauliflower, potatoes and hard winter squash.
In a soup kettle, cover the chicken with water, lightly salt and spice to taste, and add chopped veggies—celery, carrots, diced tomato, bell pepper, etc. If you’re using potato, add that to the stew as well. If you’re using grains, cook them separately. When the stew is done, you’re ready to combine everything. Put equal parts of meat and grain or potato in a large bowl, along with a tablespoon or two of the vegetables. (The vegetables should amount to about five percent of your dog’s meal.) Then spoon the mixture into a KONG. If you’re going to freeze the KONG, you can add some broth as well.
Itchy Dog KONG (for dogs with allergies on restricted prescription diets)
Because dogs with food allergies usually can’t have regular treats or chews, it can be challenging to come up with ways to add variety to their diets. Using KONGs to feed your allergic dog can help spice up his life. Just be sure to check with his veterinarian or dermatologist for a list of approved foods before you get started. The following recipe includes ingredients that many dogs with food allergies can eat. You’ll need:
Your dog’s prescription kibble
A few spoonfuls of water or prescription canned food
Grated, steamed or raw asparagus spears, broccoli, zucchini and/or carrots
A few chunks of apple, banana, watermelon, cantaloupe, a strawberry, some blueberries or a section of orange
A hypoallergenic biscuit, formulated for dogs with food allergies (ask your dog’s veterinarian about where to find these)
Baked russet or sweet potato
Vegetarian refried beans
First drop the fruit into the bottom of the KONG for dessert. Then mix together your dog’s kibble, the wet food or water, and the veggies. Put a spoonful or two of the mixture into the KONG. Then put a chunk or two of potato in. Repeat, layering the mixture and potato until the KONG is almost filled. Finally, cram the biscuit into the end of the KONG. Seal everything in with a dab of the vegetarian refried beans. Serve warm, at room temperature or frozen.
Snack KONGs
Warm Veggie Delight
You’ll need:
Cauliflower, broccoli, asparagus, zucchini, yellow squash, bell peppers, green beans, tomatoes, peas and/or carrots (use any or all of the above)
Grated parmesan cheese (optional)
Chop the veggies into chunks, grate them or steam and mash them. Put a few veggies into a KONG. Sprinkle in a spoonful of cheese. Repeat, layering the veggies and cheese until the KONG is full. Then microwave the KONG for five to eight seconds, just until the veggies are warm and the cheese is soft. Make sure the veggies and cheese aren’t too hot to eat before giving the KONG to your dog. To challenge him, you can freeze the KONG after stuffing and microwaving it. (The melted cheese will be hard to get out after it’s been frozen with the veggies.)
Western KONGmelete
You’ll need:
One egg
Cheese
Bell peppers and tomatoes
Grate the bell peppers or lightly steam them. Chop the tomatoes into chunks. Then scramble one egg with a sprinkle of cheese. Spoon the cheesy egg and the veggies into a KONG. Seal the KONG with a small chunk of cheese. Serve warm.
Fido’s Fruit Salad
You’ll need:
Cottage cheese or yogurt (only use plain or naturally sweetened yogurt—not yogurt with artificial sweeteners, which can be toxic to dogs)
Apples, banana and melon (any kind)
One small marshmallow
Cut the fruit into chunks and put them into a KONG until the toy is about two-thirds of the way full. Holding the KONG upside down, spoon cottage cheese or yogurt into the remaining space. Finally, finish by putting a small marshmallow into the KONG. Serve at room temperature or frozen.
“Pupkin” Pie
You’ll need:
Canned or freshly cooked pureed pumpkin
Yogurt or cottage cheese (only use plain or naturally sweetened yogurt—not yogurt with artificial sweeteners, which can be toxic to dogs)
Cooked oatmeal
Low-fat graham cracker
Put a spoonful of cooked oatmeal at the bottom of the KONG to seal the small hole. Then put two spoonfuls of pumpkin into the KONG. Follow with a spoonful of yogurt or cottage cheese. Repeat, layering the pumpkin and yogurt or cottage cheese until the KONG is almost full. Then cram a few pieces of graham cracker into the end of the KONG. Serve warm or frozen.
The Nutty Monkey
You’ll need:
Half a banana, cut into slices
Peanut butter
Roasted peanuts
Plain, vanilla or strawberry yogurt (only use plain or naturally sweetened yogurt—not yogurt with artificial sweeteners, which can be toxic to dogs)
A spoonful of wheat germ
Put a blob of peanut butter into an empty KONG to seal the small hole at the bottom. Add a few roasted peanuts. Mix the banana slices with a few spoonfuls of yogurt and the wheat germ. Then spoon the mixture into the KONG. Seal the KONG at the top with another blob of peanut butter. Serve at room temperature or frozen.
Late-for-Work KONGs (As Easy As It Gets)
Running late? If you’re busy and don’t have time to create culinary works of art, you can simply take a few seconds to try the following ideas. This is KONG stuffing at its fastest!
Keep a stash of halved bananas in your freezer. When you’re on the run, just grab a banana half and slide it into a KONG. Or slice an apple into wedges and insert one or two of those into a KONG.
Cram a large dog biscuit or two into a KONG. If necessary, squeeze the KONG when inserting the biscuits to change the shape of the hole and fit them in.
If you feed your dog raw food, try purchasing frozen raw medallions, which easily pop into a KONG. Just turn the KONG upside down on a counter, large hole facing up, and push the medallion into the KONG using the heel of your palm.
Use a squirt of Cheez Whiz®. Just insert the nozzle into the small end of the KONG and squeeze in some cheese. You can also use a similar product made by the KONG Company, called KONG Stuff’N™ Paste, which comes in liver and peanut butter flavors.
Smear a spoonful of peanut butter or cream cheese (preferably low-fat) on the inside walls of a KONG. If you think that your dog might finish licking out the KONG too quickly, consider preparing a few peanut butter or cream cheese KONGs in advance and leaving them in your freezer for quick use when you’re in a hurry.
Bon appétit! For more great recipe ideas and information on serving sizes and ensuring complete nutrition with home-cooked meals, we recommend Dr. Pitcairn’s New Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs and Cats by Richard Pitcairn, DVM; Real Food for Dogs: 50 Vet-Approved Recipes to Please the Canine Gastronome by Arden Moore; and Home-Prepared Dog & Cat Diets: the Healthful Alternative by Donald Strombeck, DVM, PhD.

Don't disrespect Cesar Millan

I read an article in a blog by Dogs Today editor Beverley Cuddy that i just had to respond to! She was going along quite nicely talking about BGT winners Ashleigh and Pudsey and how reward based training is good and being good with the dogs is the way forward. All stuff i would wholeheartedly agree with until she overstepped the mark by being rude and dismissive about Cesar Millan, the Dog Whisperer.

What a lot of people don't accept is that the dogs they love and train are well grounded and easy going and that means that even though they have issues that should be corrected, it doesn't matter if they don't! Nobody is going to get hurt! Cesar takes extreme cases of dogs that are in extremely sensitive and often dangerous states of mind and using the common sense approach that mother nature takes, he puts the dogs quickly back into order with the minimum of stress. Normally he does this by just his energy and body language and that is as natural as you can get, one creature telling another that their behaviour is unnacceptable by natural means. Does the bitch not nip her off spring if they are being naughty? Do dogs not try to pin other dogs down to dominate them? Do dogs in the park not fight with each other on a regular basis in some cases. Answer is yes! They do this because they understand the use of force is a means to get what they want and they will escalate this up to serious violence to get what they want! By using energy and body language he tells the dog to stop and then changes the dogs state to one of compliance which leads to relaxation and the reward of being calm and happy together in a balanced state!

Your dog shouldn't fear you, but it damn well should respect you and from that basis you can have the trusting relationship you need to control unwanted behaviour. I have seen examples of harsh correction and it is a horrible sight and does not work at all! I disagree that a tap on the side with a hand or a foot is harsh. I disagree that when as I had recently, a Chihuahua is trying to bite me repeatedly, that I shouldn't hold him down until he calms down and then let him go when he sees that I mean no harm but will not tolerate his aggression! This dog was created by a female dog lover who treated him as a baby and I see this time and time again in my dog boarding business that the dogs that are treated as children have many issues that can be serious!

The use of electronic shock training tools is a difficult one because as a rule I would agree that they are a bad idea, however as I saw demonstrated on the dog whisperer show, a cattle dog in America was blinded by constantly being run over by the tractor as it chased it and nothing would stop him. Two uses of an e-collar stopped him and he never did it again and it saved his life so I understand why this makes people uncomfortable but if the end justified it perhaps it should be considered in expert hands?

Just as dangerous as this though is being a weak dog lover  Here is the bad news for the weak dog lover, your dog doesn't love you! They do not have that capability! They trust you, respect you and are happy to be with you yes, but if someone else comes along and offers them safety and security they will go with them! As a home dog boarder I have customers stress all the time about what their dog will do without them and do you know what? The dogs don't miss them at all. I have boarded 65 dogs in my own home over the last two years and not one of the dogs has ever pinned or been ill without their owners. If they loved them so much wouldn't that be the case? I take them a walk and within an hour I've got them and they could be mine. I can recall them and deal with them as my own!

What these people don't realise is that they are being cruel to their dogs because the dogs are stressed out! I have seen so many dogs that have been handed the leadership role by weak dog owners who then watch their dog becoming more and more anxious, ripping up the house, whining, barking, slobbering, shaking and being completely stressed  as they are forced into making poor decisions to protect the weak human creature they feel they have to defend! Why do you think dogs pull on the lead and bark and go nuts at other dogs? They are pack animals, they are programmed to be together they would only attack for serious reasons not just because they are passing by!

Loving dogs should mean that you are respectful of their DNA and the predator side of them and that you lead them with trust, respect and compassion. They are what they say on the tin! DOGS! not human babies and you don't dress them up, you don't let them lie on your bed and you certainly don't let them bite your other half or children because they are guarding their property!

So, please be good to dogs and treat them with respect and love in the right place, but don't be the weak and pathetic type of dog lover that thinks that what Cesar does is cruel, because if you do then you obviously haven't watched the show or understood the message that he is giving! If you followed his philosophy without a stereotyped idea of the "Barbara Woodhouse" type of trainer, then we wouldn't have millions of dogs worldwide with the issues that we have!

Sorry rant over but I am sick of listening to people put Cesar down as if they know better! I'd like to see Beverley Cuddy deal with some of these dogs with her reward based methods. I have been training dogs for over 20 years, I have been bitten on many occasions by many different dogs and i can assure you it is painful and it is frightening. If Beverley would like to stand in front of a GSD, Boxer, Staffie or Rottie and use her clicker to stop it ripping into her arm or leg feel free, Yes the clicker could stop any of this happening if used from puppy-hood, but once its happened it needs a real dog trainer / behaviourist to step in and not be afraid to challenge that dogs behaviour and that person is Cesar not Beverley or Victoria or any other non participants that watch and make comment from afar!

Cheers Steve